Norfolk, Norwich, & the North Sea

Africa, and other countries, have melded into one international mirage this year, with promises of exoticism and foreignness a drifting horizon of cancellations and disappointment. As the palm fronds and camels bask in their solitude, this is my attempt at selling the staycation, and where better place to start than the epicentre of the East, Nelson’s County, and my homeland, Norfolk.

Join me as I meander through the Norfolk countryside, bringing you a handful of recommendations to best explore what Norfolk has to offer.

'I am a Norfolk man and Glory in being so.'

Horatio Nelson / Author

In no particular order or geographical logic...

Framed with pinewood forest, Holkham Beach is an elegant stretch of coastline and thus my favourite North-Norfolk retreat. Lug your wicker picnic basket through the dappled treeline and embrace the open expanse of sandy beach, a horseshoe basin flanked by woodland and undulating dunes. Depending on the tide, the North Sea can be devilishly distant, but this enormity of panorama only complements our wide Norfolk landscapes of sand, sea and sky.

It’s not uncommon, particularly in Autumn, to see the King's Troop Royal Horse Artillery galloping across the sands during their essential beach training, a spectacular and powerful sight.

For those without a horse, walk east along the sands and you’ll eventually arrive upon the individually-painted beach huts of Wells-next-the-Sea, their colourful styles making for a photogenic backdrop. Stop at Wells Quay for local crab or fish and chips, then return via the shade of the forest.

Join me fireside for a pint o’ bear in my favourite countryside pub, The Brisley Bell. This 17th century village inn will charm the most ardent city dweller, seduced by roaring fires, embracing leather armchairs, and a tasteful tapestry of Norfolk taxidermy, nailed to the walls to spectate upon the revelry.

The food here is excellent, drawing from local and seasonal produce, occasionally accompanied by a healthy smattering of shot to authenticate the fact that your dinner was likely flitting across the countryside earlier that afternoon. The bar hosts a mosaic of East Anglia’s finest breweries – I’d recommend a pint of Ghost Ship or Wherry to settle you into the evening. Good luck getting home though, it’s in the middle of nowhere and surrounded by darkness – welcome to Norfolk.

Oh the splendour of the Norfolk Broads;

dappled waterways glisten under wide Norfolk skies;

a wherry tacks between the tickling reeds.

Seven rivers link the Norfolk Broads National Park, sprawling across the eastern half of the county in an casual web of waterways, broads and waterside parishes. Of course the Broads are no secret, drawing throngs of enthusiastic boaters of varying degrees of seamanship and sobriety.

For a unique perspective, head to the lesser-visited village of Ranworth, accessible by land or water. Look west through the trees and the church may appear indistinguishable from the 650 other churches that bless Norfolk with the greatest concentration of medieval churches in the world. Dating back to the 14^th century, St Helen’s offers a unique vantage, unchanged through time. With a health and safety approach reminiscent of the Middle Ages, visitors may climb the spiralling and uneven 89 steps, 2 ladders and trap door of the tower, rewarding the breathless with spectacular views of the 5 surrounding broads and greenery beyond. Summit on the hour for an additional fright, as the bells ring out over the parish.

'A whispering and watery Norfolk sound
Telling of all the moonlit reeds around.'

John Betjeman, Norfolk

My previous Africa And Other Countries post brought you rhinos, giraffes and a pride of hunting lions. As a sign of the times, today we celebrate Norfolk’s tribute to the Galapagos – Blakeney Point – home to England’s largest colony of Grey Seals, which frolic in the unattractive waters of the North Sea.

This is actually a great outing for all ages. Board a boat at Morston Quay – Beans Boats are a pretty good outfit, despite their open-air vessels looking remarkably similar to the wooden lifeboats of the Titanic. Brace yourselves against the sea breeze and tidal chop, and you’ll soon be surrounded by inquisitive, wide-eyed seals bobbing up alongside.

I once did this excursion in a storm, bolts of lightning hacking down at our uncovered craft as we aborted the seals and puttered agonisingly slowly back towards the quay. Sodden and nauseous, I left satisfied that Norfolk can indeed offer memorable wildlife encounters.

The National Trust’s Sheringham Park is a firm favourite of Norfolk folk, particularly in May and June when the rhododendrons are in full flower, bringing a blanket of floral colour to the estate. Our answer to Japan’s cherry blossom season, this really is an impressive swathe of vibrancy, set against sweeping farmland views and the sea beyond.

Climb wooden lookouts for canopy views, or amble amongst the cows on terra firma. Time it right and you’ll be rewarded by the steam wisps and whistle of the Poppy Line, a heritage railway which glides across the panorama, evoking childhood memories of the Famous Five and The Railway Children.

I couldn’t pen this post without referencing Norwich, a fine city and capital of the county. Personally, my frequent pilgrimages to Norwich are comforting and familiar, and like all things fine, it’s pleasant, welcoming, easy, inoffensive, tame.

There are some lovely parts, particularly the Cathedral "Quarter" down to the river; the market; Carra Ruhd; Whitlingham Lake; Eaton Park. Ironically, Norwich prison boasts the best city views, and well worth a detour there, atop Mousehold Heath for a sunset picnic.

But I can’t help feel that Norwich lacks something. Perhaps a main square to sip coffee à la terrasse and watch the world go by – a mainstay of desirable European cities. I’d love for the castle to command the attention it deserves, having loomed over the city in various guises for almost 1000 years, yet rarely noted by day-to-day shoppers. Dare I mention the pedestrianisation of Norwich city centre, making it pleasantly navigable by foot, but eerily lacking in freneticism and momentum.

Perhaps I’ve become too blasé about the wonderfully historic buildings, cobbled streets and petite coffee shops that make up the fabric of Norwich. Visitors will love its approachability and ambling pace. Plus it’s a great central base to explore the wilder parts of the county. For those spending the evening, head for the lovely low-key booths of the Coach and Horses, tucked behind City Hall (Bethel St); The Sir Garnet's upper floors overlooking the market; or the tiny Adam and Eve, probably Norwich’s oldest pub, for a chance of seeing ghosts (likelihood enhanced after third pint).

'What a grand, higgledy-piggledy, sensible old place Norwich is!'

J. B. Priestley

Norfolk is wonderfully impractical, its citizens comforted by its perceived isolation. Distance is measured in country miles, and roads tease drivers with their bends, narrowness, and unflinching pheasants.

A car is best, although public transport is surprisingly decent, with most towns of note linked from Norwich at least once a week. Local trains are fairly non-existent, however connections from London Liverpool Street to Norwich (<2hrs, every 30 mins) are very good and exceptionally reasonable if booked in advance. It’s also worth considering the temptingly cheap Megabus from London Stratford's Westfield, which will whisk you into the centre of Norwich pronto.

I won’t ramble on with hotel recommendations, but feel free to contact me in the comments for tailored suggestions.

'Norfolk is cut off on three sides by the sea and on the fourth by British Rail.'

Local saying, dated

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